Bogotá: the city of creativity
Colombia
Bogotá: The city of creativity
During all my travels through Colombia, almost every traveler told me to spend as little time as possible in Bogotá. “It’s just a big, dirty city with shitty weather”. How wrong are all of them! Let me clear things up… I LOVED Bogotá! It is indeed a big city, and the weather can be a little bit shitty. But coming from Holland I’m pretty used to grey clouds and drizzling rains. Of course, it’s hard to beat the Caribean livin’ la Vida Loca, always 30 degrees, and always cocktail o’clock vibes. But seriously, Bogotá got something pretty amazing going on as well. It is the city of street art, the city of seriously good partying, beautiful colonial architecture, and world-class museums. You can dance the night away, eat amazing food, wander around for days discovering new places, and watch the great mix of people running through the streets.
No empty walls in Bogotá
When visiting Bogotá there’s definitely one thing you shouldn’t miss out on; the street art tour. It’s a free walking tour guided by actual street artists that takes you through the Candelaria and downtown area showing you an amazing collection of street art from artists all over the world. Since every empty wall seems to function as a canvas, you will not only see things that blow you away but also see how artists use those walls as a way to express themselves. With Colombia having a rather tumultuous past, you’ll notice they got plenty of inspiration and using street art as a voice results in remarkable and amazing art pieces.
Disneyland for adults
Even before I started my trip through South America I already got heads up about this place called ‘Disneyland for adults’. This might sound a bit doubtful but got me fascinated straight away. Hoping I wouldn’t end up at some sort of swingers club, I found myself an Aussie friend and a party bus, and off we went. The real name of this place is Andres Carne de Res and it’s basically just a huge steakhouse/restaurant (as in a whole block kind of huge) that turns into a nightclub. And what a rollercoaster of a night it was. Since they know how to party in Bogotá it doesn’t necessarily have to end here. Not satisfied after a night at Andres? Top it off with some electronic beats at Baum and stumble back to your bed around noon.
Usaquen Sunday Market
With probably one of the worst hangovers I got myself together the next morning for the ultimate Sunday activity; strolling around the Usaquen Sunday market. I was lucky to meet an amazing Bogotana (Silvia, you are a legend!) who showed me around a bit and took me to a few places that aren’t necessarily on the traveler’s radar. Usaquen was one of those places. A beautiful neighborhood in the northern part of Bogotá filled with amazing restaurants (they got a La Mar as well!!) and cozy bars. I guess I could easily spend a day just hopping from restaurant to cafe to bar, trying out all the good things they have to offer. Besides food, the market itself can help you out with all sorts of last-minute souvenir shopping for your loved ones at home.
Returning ASAP to Bogotá
Oh Bogotá, I wish I had more time to spend around here. So much to do, so little time. I kind of underestimated the beauty of this city, and I do hope I get to experience it again. I guess this means I have to come back, right? So this is just adiós for now, it’s been more than a pleasure!
Marthe
Photos by: M. Barends©
San Gil: the Colombian capital of adventure
Colombia
San Gil: The Colombian capital of adventure
About seven hours north of Bogota you’ll find the town of San Gil (map), surrounded by mountains, rivers, and colonial towns. I don’t know why, but this part of Colombia gets skipped in a lot of travel itineraries, while there’s so much to do! The beautiful scenery of San Gil is the ultimate playground for the thrill-seekers among us. But even those who aren’t high on getting that adrenaline pumped up will enjoy the relaxed vibe in this little town and its lush surroundings.
Living on the edge in San Gil
Crowned as the ‘adventure capital of Colombia’ you can guess what to expect. Whitewater rafting, paragliding, bungee jumping, rappelling down waterfalls, crawling through caves, cliff jumping, it’s all part of the fun around here. So adrenaline junkies out there, this is your place to be! Shall I make your day even better? It’s incredibly cheap as well. $20 dollar bungee jumping or $15 dollar paragliding, it does make you wonder if safety’s first, but hey, I made it out alive! (Might wanna check your travel insurance beforehand…)
Crazy local games
San Gil is not only your outdoor thrill-seeking mecca, even indoors they know how to spice things up. This is the place where I “learned” (or you could better say “tried”) the local game of Tejo. Tejo involves heavy metal balls, a circle full of clay, lots of beers, and gunpowder. Strange combination, but the locals treat it like it’s part of the Olympics. Basically, you try to smash the heavy metal balls into this circle of clay, hoping it will hit the little envelopes of gunpowder which gives you points (and deafness) and makes you drink even more beers. Lots of fun, but unfortunately, needless to say, I sucked at it.
San Gil delicacies
Since San Gil seems to be the place for firsts, I had another once-in-a-lifetime (but never again) experience. Apparently, they got some sort of delicacy around here called hormigas culonas. For those who don’t speak Spanish; big-arsed fried ants, literally. My mom always taught me to try first, but I kind of wish I forgot about that wisdom here. These crispy little insects remind you first of popcorn, but then the taste kicks in and it definitely doesn’t taste like popcorn. Can’t say I dove in for seconds.
Taking it slow
For those who aren’t so fond of all these new exciting experiences, San Gil actually has some relaxing things in store for you as well. Dipping in one of the many waterfalls and natural pools around or strolling around the beautiful colonial towns like Barichara makes time standstill. No ants for dinner? Gringo Mike’s has some proper Mexican-American-style dishes that will fill you up and make you wanna roll back to wherever you’re staying.
The many faces of San Gil
San Gil really is a place for everyone and it is so easy to add a few days to your initial plan. The town will surprise you with its people, amazing food, beautiful surroundings, and of course, its overload of activities. Spice up your life (wise words by the Spice Girls) or enjoy the tranquility of the rolling hills and old towns that take you back in time, San Gil got it all.
Marthe
Photos by: M. Barends ©
Rancho Relaxo: little piece of paradise
Colombia
Rancho Relaxo: Little piece of paradise
Sometimes you come across places which you never wanna leave. Rancho Relaxo on the Caribbean Coast of Colombia is such a place. It’s one of the few must-sees that’s not even mentioned in the Lonely Planet and only gets passed on through the grapevine. The name says it all: ultimate relaxation. Mango’s popping out of the trees, hammocks everywhere, a parakeet called Jimmy stealing the show, and the sweetest crew you can wish for. The vibe is contagious. Oh, and the food. To sum it up, the food is amazing. Jeff and Nicole cook up gourmet dinners, lunches, and breakfasts, and the mango bars are to die for. Can I move here?
Sunday fun day at Rancho Relaxo
Sunday afternoon pool parties with fruity cocktails or lounging the day away in one of the many hammocks; it’s a seriously tough life around here. Rancho Relaxo is a place to wind down. To finally read those books you didn’t have the time for before, to chat with other travelers about everybody’s adventures, and to soak up every sunrise and every sunset. Does this sound too boring for your liking? Rancho Relaxo is always looking for volunteers to make the place even more awesome than it already is.
As you are on the Caribean coast, the beach is just down the road. The chances are most likely you got the place all to yourself. White sand, palm trees, and an ocean you can’t resist. What more can you wish for?
Sleep like a baby
After a day on the beach you can crash down in one of the many sleeping options they have available. Whether you stay in the main house, or in the cute little dorm-inspired huts around the property, you’ll sleep like a baby guaranteed. If you wanna top it up a bit, then head up the hill. Keen on watching the sunrise while slowly waking up? All possible with their hammocks up on the hill with a view that can’t be beaten.
A one-way trip to Rancho Relaxo
People at Rancho Relaxo keep saying goodbye and keep coming back. They must be doing something very well if this happens all the time. I better got you convinced by now, so go, go, go and pay this little piece of paradise a visit. How to get to Rancho Relaxo? Hop on a bus from Santa Marta to Palomino, and after passing Tayrona Park and Costeno beach, you’ll notice a big donkey sign. That’s where you’re supposed to be! Careful, you might get stuck here.
Love, Marthe
Photos by: M. Barends ©
La Guajira: The other end of the world
Colombia
La Guajira: The other end of the world
La Guajira desert, the most northern tip of South America covered in sand and draught. I already heard some pretty spectacular stories about this deserted strip of land in Colombia and couldn’t wait to see it with my own eyes. We’ve seen snowcapped mountains, lush jungles, Caribbean beaches, moon landscapes, and vibrant cities. Now it’s time to explore the desert!
The road to La Guajira
Going to La Guajira you got two options. You can do a tour that costs you a shitload of money, or you can figure it out yourself. Not only more backpacker budget-friendly, but also a lot more adventurous. Make sure you find an English guy like I did, and you got nothing to worry about. So there we went, two Belgians, two English, and I off to the desert. On this little field trip, we probably used every sort of transportation you can think of, ranging from moto’s, minibusses, 4×4’s to boats going through landscapes that changed even quicker than we changed vehicles.
First stop: Cabo de la Vela
Our first stop was Cabo de la Vela. A little desert town where it hasn’t rained for about three years. Not a single drop. It’s a dusty little town existing of only one main road with a few accommodations right at the beach. It’s also the place where the indigenous Wayuu people live that make the most gorgeous bags. It takes them a month to make one bag. You’ll notice these bags have lots of different patterns. It turns out that every single pattern has a specific message or meaning and belongs to a certain family. The patterns are passed on from mother to daughter to keep the family message going. Special, isn’t it?
Lobsters and kitesurfing
Cabo de la Vela also had a little surprise waiting for me. I’ve always wanted to learn how to kitesurf, but never really got the chance to do it. And here I was, in the middle of nowhere without running water or any sort of Western luxury, only to find out this is the place to be for kitesurfing. So exciting!! The first attempt at kitesurfing got rewarded by another perk of Cabo de la Vela: $8 lobsters. This little desert town got it all figured out I must say!
Northern Milestones
Cabo de la Vela wasn’t our final destination though. We got another 4×4 and a boat that brought us to Punta Gallinas; the most northern point of South America. Quite a milestone I must say. I got to touch ground in the most southern point in Argentina and now after 6 months made it all the way up to the North. Instead of considering taking a ferry to Antarctica, up north, we found sand dunes. Quite the opposite. Punta Gallinas offers you sleeping in a hammock, rolling off sand dunes, eating more lobster, and watching amazing sunsets. How good is this place?
Cookie Toll
There’s something special about the road politics between Cabo de la Vela and Punta Gallinas. The dusty dirt roads here are ruled by the indigenous kids and their moms who figured out that tourists can be quite fruitful. Since there’s practically nothing and there’s no way you can start your own little vegetable garden, you gotta find other ways to get food. Well, those smart-ass kids figured it out: Cookie toll. Every ten meters or so there’s a big rope across the road and a group of sassy kids that won’t let you through unless you give them cookies. Damn, I wish I was that smart at that age.
Leaving La Guajira with a bang
Four days of desert fun in La Guajira made us longing for pretty beaches with palm trees again. However, getting back to Palomino didn’t go as smoothly as our way in. 19 people, two babies, a box full of lobsters, a chicken, and a goat, all pushed into the back of a truck. And there’s always room for more.
Oh well, you can’t leave La Guajira without an experience like this. We must have been just as much the tourist attraction as our co-travelers were for us. This beautiful part of Colombia has been worth every hassle and is definitely one of the highlights of my trip. Colombia has been rocking, please keep on doing just that and I’ll probably never leave.
Marthe
Photos by: M. Barends ©
10 Reasons why you should not miss out on Costeño Beach
Colombia
10 Reasons why you should not miss out on Costeño Beach
Have you ever been to a place where you didn’t wanna leave, ever? No? You obviously haven’t been to Costeño Beach yet. This place in the middle of nowhere is probably the definition of Colombian paradise. Empty beaches, killer sunsets, a coastline covered in palm trees, and an abundance of hammocks swaying in the wind. Nothing beats waking up with the sound of the ocean, and breakfast with your feet in the sand, right? Costeño Beach is this and much more. If you aren’t convinced by my little introduction here, I got another ten reasons for you.
1. Delicious food at Costeño Beach
Who doesn’t love slow-cooked pulled pork sandwiches, homemade Thai curries, fresh fish, and mouthwatering lasagna? Sign up for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, and join in on the food feast. If there’s one thing Costeño Beach got covered, it’s definitely their cuisine. Trust me, eat the food, and you’ll never wanna leave.
2. Life in a hammock
Since the rhythm around here basically involves eat, sleep, surf, repeat, you spend quite a lot of time in a hammock. Daytime napping is totally appropriate around here. Who doesn’t love snoozing away with the sound of the ocean, a slight breeze, and the sun on your face? Whether you’re up for a whole night of rocking yourself to sleep or simply just wanna stick to the ocean view during daytime naps, everyone can find a hammock to their needs around here.
3. Sunrises and early morning surf sessions
I’m definitely not a morning person, but the sunrises here got me up at five and made me surf an hour later. Skies on fire and not a single human being around to spoil that moment. With the waves still clean, this is your moment to get a fun surf session in. The beach break offers both lefts and rights and is suitable for both beginners and more advanced. It might not be the most exciting surf spot in the world, but it sure makes Costeño Beach even better. Best way to start the day!
4. Sunsets and late afternoon surf sessions
When the winds lie down at the end of the day, the surf picks up again. Is surfing not really your thing? Don’t worry, find a good spot on the beach and enjoy the sunset spectacle that’s on offer every single day. Sunsets are definitely more up my alley and almost as good as the morning variant. Can you picture yourself in one of those hammocks, a beer in your hand, awesome people around, and the sun setting? What a perfect way to end another perfect day… and guess what, you can do it all over again tomorrow!
5. Surf body watching
Ok, single or not, nothing better than watching tanned surfer bodies parade down the beach with a surfboard under their arm. Both guys and girls can eat their hearts out at Costeño Beach. What better place to watch surfers on the Caribbean coast, than at the only surf camp around?
6. Glow in the dark plankton
Yes, get out on the beach at night, stamp your feet on the sand and those little animals will light up like sparkly little glitters.
7. Cheap Rum
What else should you drink around a campfire on the beach of the Caribbean coast? Colombia is surrounded by countries brewing up some fine rum, that will lighten that Caribbean fire in you. Mix it up in cocktails, or drink it straight up. No matter what, you haven’t been to the Caribbean if you haven’t tried rum at least once.
8. No Internet
We can all use a little break from social media from time to time, and actually, talk during dinner time instead of checking our phones (a much-happening phenomenon in hostel common rooms). The number of new card games I learned and philosophical chats I had around here is ridiculous. Oh, and don’t forget about the animal game. Ask for it when you’re there!
9. The Costeño Pets
Nearly every hostel around South America has cats and dogs running around, but none of them have Tina. This dog follows you down the beach wherever you go, waits for you till you’re done surfing, and then gives you the biggest welcome back.
10. The Stars
How many nights did I watch the stars here? Probably every night. Making a billion wishes, because there were that many shooting stars. With no lights around whatsoever, it’s the perfect spot to watch the Milkyway. Can you imagine yourself rocking in your hammock, looking up to a sky so full of stars there’s no way you can ever count them all? Welcome to Costeño Beach.
11. The walk from Costeño Beach to the river, through the coconut plantation
I know I said only ten reasons, but every time I walked barefoot through this to our surf spot, I got a big smile on my face. You can’t skip out a reason if it makes you smile time after time.
So go check it out and let’s see how often you walk back to reception to extend your stay with “one more night”…. I’ll see you there!
Marthe
Photos by: M. Barends©
Mi Casa en Ipauratu: Volunteering in Colombia
Colombia
Mi Casa en Ipauratu: Volunteering in Colombia
It’s time for something different. I’ve been traveling now for over four months, and absolutely loving it, but sometimes you gotta get out of that way too comfortable chill life. One of the good things about traveling, especially on your own, is the opportunity to completely choose what to do, when to do it and with whomever, you wanna do it. It’s actually a bit of a ‘me-myself-and-I-show’. It gives you freedom and I think it’s good for your own development to be in a situation like that from time to time. However, after four months of self-indulgence, it’s time to kick me of that number one priority rank, and actually, get myself to the lowest rank. It’s time for volunteering!
Meet Mi Casa en Ipauratu
I always thought I would go volunteering in Africa. Until this came on my path; Mi Casa en Ipauratu, a volunteering project in Paluato, Colombia. Situated in one of the poorer areas of Colombia, the opportunities for people living here are limited. Mi Casa en Ipauratu helps out the less fortunate kids of the community and has several programs to take care and stimulate mentally and physically disabled children. Besides babysitting adorable kids over the years I had no experience whatsoever with teaching or disabled children. Thankfully they still wanted me to help them wherever I could.
Volunteering tasks
Working for the foundation contains many different programs concerning all kids between the age of 2 to 16. I’ve been helping out at the local elementary school and their school for mentally disabled kids most of the days. During those days I was assisting the local teachers, giving the kids a bit of extra attention with school work, or just playing with them. I’ve honestly never met kids that were so eager to learn English, or maybe even just to learn in general. Mi Casa en Ipauratu also offers an after-school project for every kid in the area that would like to stop by. Different activities are being offered here ranging from English classes to playing sports, or creative classes.
A helping hand
Not only does Mi Casa en Ipauratu offer educational programs, but they also support an elderly home and a group of kids with physical disabilities. By visiting them several times a week, playing games, being creative, or just sit and chat (in the best of Spanish that I have combined with some proper sign language), they try to make their lives a little easier.
Daily life in Paluato
While traveling you tend to stick to all the tourist places. Even with backpacking, where you do visit a bit more off-the-beaten-track places, you don’t get to experience a culture or daily life properly. Living in Paluato definitely changes that. Being the only tourist there, life doesn’t get more real than here.
The real Colombia
Imagine this: all houses made of clay and corrugated sheets, no paved roads, no running water. Chickens, donkeys, and dogs running around (there might actually be more animals than people here). Mangoes for breakfast, lunch, and dinner because it’s mango season. Don’t forget the occasional “No hay luz” (electricity breaks) and cheeky little Colombian kids that greet you twenty times a day with all the English words they know. It’s a special little place, and I’m so glad I get to experience this.
Home away from home
Even though life in Paluato might not live up to our Western standards in terms of what they got, the people of this community are so welcoming and open up their homes like you’re family. Don’t get me wrong, it’s not all sunshine and roses. It’s hard to see how many people have to struggle to take care of their family or how certain paths of life are already so set and certain opportunities already ruled out. Nonetheless, and this might sound like the ultimate cliche, but it’s insane what you get back from just giving them that extra attention.
Only smiles and happy faces at Mi Casa en Ipauratu
So here I am, one hell of an experience richer. I got to meet so many beautiful people, I got to see such an amazing and honest part of Colombia, and I got to see so many smiles on the faces of those kids. Of all the recommendations that I do on Mokum Surf Club, this might be the biggest of them all. So if you ever consider volunteering, or are around the Barranquilla area, go pay this organization a visit. You don’t have to be a teacher, you don’t have to bring thousands of dollars (would be nice though), you don’t have to save the world. Just a big smile on your face and lots of positive energy will do and will change lives.
Love,
Marthe
Ps. If you are interested or have any questions about my experience at Mi Casa en Ipauratu, feel free to shoot me an e-mail. You can also check their website.
Photos by: M. Barends ©
Hello Salento: Getting spoiled in the Coffee Region
Colombia
Hello Salento: Getting spoiled in the Coffee Region
There are a few things that I should mention talking about Salento. The Valle del Cocora is not the only reason to spend some time in the hills of Salento, there is actually quite a lot more. First of all, make sure you stay longer than two days. One way or another, you will spend more time around here than you were planning on. It could be the mountain air, the beautiful surroundings, the good food, or the must-do activities, or it could be them all combined. But there’s something in the water that makes you wanna stay way longer.
The Cocora Valley
Once you got that covered, you can soak up the Salento vibe and hike yourself through that Cocora valley. Which is amazing. It’s a five-hour hike (as long as you don’t get lost as we did and start climbing the Sierra Nevada) through a beautiful valley covered in Wax Palms, jungle mountains, and a hummingbird farm. The latter offers you the typical and doubtful Colombian delight of hot chocolate and cheese. Not the hiking type or simply already having an overkill of hiking? Thank those gauchos, because there are always horses.
Salento and the world of coffee
Besides wax palms, Salento is actually very well known for its coffee. Not that the Colombians keep this treasure to themselves as 90% of the good coffee gets exported. So finding a place in this beautiful country where you can actually enjoy a proper cup of coffee might be quite the challenge. Except for Salento! Here you can indulge yourself with plenty of good coffee and even learn what this little coffee bean went through before you use it as a wake-up call.
A must-visit
Since coffee and cake are like two peas in a pot, you do have to visit the Brunch Cafe as well. Being an absolute cake addict, this place with their peanut butter brownie was my Mekka. Coffee, chocolate, peanut butter, what more can you wish for? After wandering the colorful streets of Salento, this is the perfect place to sit down and pamper yourself with this bundle of deliciousness. Can’t get enough of it? They got peanut butter brownie milkshakes as well.
Adios, Salento
Protecting myself from getting seriously fat and becoming a peanut butter brownie myself, I, unfortunately, do have to say goodbye to this little place of heaven. Off to a new, and completely different adventure this time. Expanding my horizon, getting out of my comfort zone, and challenging myself. Yes, that’s what’s next! Stay tuned!
Marthe
Photos by: M. Barends ©