It’s been a few years since we visited one of our favorite surf spots in France, but this year we’re back! During our surf road trip last spring, we drove straight from Amsterdam to Hossegor, because we couldn’t wait to return. Golden beaches, consistent swell, after surf lunches with wine and oysters, we have missed it all. Over the years there has been some development here, so it’s about time we update our Hossegor Guide again. Where should you surf, eat, and sleep? We have figured it all out for you!
Surf like there's no tomorrow in Hossegor
So, first things first. The surf. Because if you haven’t heard about Hossegor just yet, well, are you even a surfer then? No, kidding. For those having no idea what all the fuss is about, here a little introduction: barrels, barrels, and barrels. Not that we surf those, so thankfully there are more spots than just the expert tube magnet.
Actually, there are many surf spots around Hossegor for different levels. While Hossegor’s main spots close to town are mostly suitable for intermediate and advanced surfers, there are some fine spots on offer for beginners on the outskirts as well. The best time to visit Hossegor is from September till May, with the biggest swells rolling in during winter. Surfing is definitely still possible from June till September, but the waves will be smaller and the crowds bigger.
La Graviere
La Graviere is Hossegor’s most famous spot and is often named one of the best beach breaks in the world. This is where Hossegor gets its barrel reputation from. It’s a very powerful, hollow, and fast wave, especially in autumn and winter. It works best with incoming tide, and a north or western swell.
Le Nord
If you think La Graviere is big and challenging, spitting you out in a killer shore break, then wait till Le Nord gets working. This is a proper big wave spot which can hold swells up to 6 meter. The currents are incredibly strong, so this is definitely an expert-only spot.
Le Sud
Not to worry for those who aren’t up for barrels and big waves, as there’s still Le Sud. Due to its more sheltered location, Le Sud produces more mellow waves perfect for beginners, intermediates, and longboarders. It’s also a spot you might want to avoid during summer months, as the surf schools love it too. This beach breaks works best with incoming tide, with a north or west swell.
Les Culs Nuls
This beach break is one of the most consistent spots around, as it can be fun in so many different conditions. It works on all tides, preferably with a W-NW swell. It’s definitely a more advanced wave as it’s fast, steep, hollow, and punchy. Not with the exact same killer instinct as La Graviere and Le Nord, but definitely not a wave to underestimate.
Le Penon
This is one of our favorite spots in the area. Le Penon can be firing as well, but it’s a bit more forgiving than Le Nord and La Graviere. The long stretch of beach of Seignosse offers multiple peaks, spreading the crowds. It’s still a very consistent wave, with both left and right handers. It works best with winds from the east and swell from the west. A fun wave for all levels, although it does get too crowded in the summer months with surf schools and kamikaze beginners.
Les Estagnots
Another big wave spot on autumn and winter days filled with swell. It’s the only spot in Seignosse that can hold the bigger swells and still produce huge rideable waves and fast, hollow barrels. Les Estagnots works in many conditions, though, so in summer it can actually be a fun long boarding spot. Ideally, it needs a swell from the west and an easterly offshore wind. As it’s also the most popular break in Seignosse, it means the crowds arrive when the swell does too.
Plage des Casernes
One of the least crowded spots in the Hossegor area that can still offer some fun waves. It’s an exposed beach break that works best with a NW swell at mid tide. Best thing about this spot? The fresh croissant you can get afterward at L’autre Endroit.
Capbreton
As if Hossegor and Seignosse aren’t offering enough surf spots to choose from, we haven’t even mentioned Capbreton. South of Hossegor you can find the break La Piste. Another very consistent beach break that works all year long, offering you heavy barrels in winter and more intermediate appropriate waves in summer. While most of the previous mentioned breaks offer both right and left-handers, La Piste definitely favors the regulars among us. Just like all the other spots in this nook of the world, it works best with an easterly wind and a west swell.
Where to stay in Hossegor
Hossegor isn’t an easy place to find nice accommodation. It’s either not that special or(/and) crazy expensive. Value for money is not an easy thing to find around here. That’s why we always end up camping here. We don’t necessarily like campings in France, as French campsites are well known for their entertainment programs and tons of Dutch people. This to me is normally a big red flag. But, outside the holiday season, we found two spots that aren’t too bad.
Firstly, Camping Les Chevreuils. This one is the closest to the beach of Seignosse and is pretty nice with decent facilities, a pool, and shaded spots. Another option would be Camping De Saubrigues. This is a bit more inland, but a very quiet camping spot at a farmer’s land. Facilities are simple and basic, but clean, and there’s definitely no entertainment program.
Where to eat in Hossegor
Food, however, is good almost everywhere in Hossegor. The French know their foods and wines, and I always find it a treat to come down here and indulge. Our favorite breakfast spot is Pacific Coast Cafe. This little café in the center of town is a bit hidden from all the hustle and bustle of the main street and is run by a super welcoming couple. They got great coffees, yummy juices, and lots of healthy, breakfast and lunch options.
Spot Palace
This year we visited Hossegor again, after living in the tropics for a few years, and we were so happy to discover a lot of new spots. Especially in the area of all the surf shops and outlets, there’s an explosion of cool new restaurants. We stumbled upon Spot Palace and really enjoyed this place. Their outside terrace has such a nice vibe (the inside looked pretty cool as well!) and instead of having one coffee, we stuck around for hours, ordering more and more. Definitely try out their Smash Burger and Miso Carbonara Noodles.
Le Mango Tree
Le Mango Tree is giving you all the Instagram summer vibes you could possibly wish. Their beautiful healthy bowls, avocado toasts, and yummy snacks, are a good reason to visit this spot. What makes it even better? You can enjoy your order on a picnic blanket overlooking the lake and beach.
L’Autre Endroit
Whether we went for an early morning surf session or beach walk, we’d always stop at L’Autre Endroit for a fresh croissant and cup of coffee (tea in my case) on the way home. I loved this little morning routine of waking up with the sound of the ocean and slowly starting a new day overlooking the beach. Also, their croissants might just be the best we’ve had during this trip.
Tante Jeanne
A Hossegor classic, Tante Jeanne is that place where you know the food is always good. They serve some French classics combined with healthier options like poke bowls (isn’t that the most popular dish these days!?). If there’s one thing you should never miss out on at Tante Jeanne, it’s their desserts. Waffles and ice-cream… who can say no to that?
Le Bistro Balnéaire
This typical French bistro has a not so typical view over the lake of Hossegor. Great spot for sun downers or a French style Summer dinner. If there’s one thing you definitely shouldn’t miss out on, it’s the profiteroles. I called dibs on this dessert (it’s my favorite), but retreated after seeing the size of this gigantic profiterole covered in chocolate sauce. Sharing is caring, right? Best dessert in a long time!
Baraketa
There’s a new kid in town and one you absolutely want to visit. Baraketa is situated by the lake, giving you great Hossegor views while enjoying your cold glass of wine. They don’t do dinner, but it’s a great spot for lunch or afternoon drinks and snacks.
Charming Guéthary
When the swell isn’t working for you (either flat or too big), there are plenty of places to explore in Hossegor’s surroundings. If you’re up for a bit of a field trip, then drive down South. What Hossegor might lack in charm, nearby Guéthary makes up for it. The whole village is built in basque style with white houses and red rooftops, balconies covered in flowers, and seaside views. Wine is served as breakfast, the coastline is covered with little beach bars, and the surfers walk bare feet through the small streets. Because of the shape of Guéthary’s bay, it’s perfect for stand-up paddling. Moving a little more towards Bidart there are plenty of waves for the surf-minded among us.
Follow the waves to Hossegor
We have spent many summers in Hossegor, and always had a bit of a love/hate relationship with it. Love it because of the waves and food, of course, but a bit of hate because it can get so crowded in July and August. However, if you’re visiting any other month of the year, this can only be a love relationship. The surf is great all year long, you don’t need your thickest wetsuit most of the time, the beaches are beautiful, and the food very French and plentiful. And with a playground like Hossegor, which surfer with common sense could even think of skipping this surfing hotspot? I guess we’re back on track with yearly visits, because one day… we will surf a Hossegor barrel.
Surf’s up people, see ya in Hossegor!
Marthe
Photos by: M. Barends, J. Roeland©
