San Cipriano: Mototrain jungle cruising
Colombia
San Cipriano: Mototrain Jungle Cruising
Sometimes you come across places or activities that you would never ever come across in good old Europe. Well, San Cipriano (map) is one of those. Whoever found out about this jungle town, must have been quite the treasure seeker. Because this place is definitely off the beaten track.
Somewhere between Cali and Buenaventura, you get dropped off on the side of the road, and you’ll be like… where the hell am I? People looking at you like they’ve never ever seen a tourist in their life (which is definitely not true, part of the whole experience I guess). No sign of San Cipriano whatsoever, and the thought of how am I coming back to Cali crosses your mind pretty much the same moment you get out of the bus. Adventurous it is!
Hold onto your butts!
Once you start walking, this crazy busy, music everywhere, little main street (still no tourists) pops up out of nowhere. And there it is…. The moto-train! Although “train” might be a bit overrated. Basically, it’s a motorcycle build upon a piece of wood that will cruise you through the jungle on an old train rail. Quite creative, right? Jump on and hold on tight, and within 20 minutes you’ll be in San Cipriano. Once again in the absolute middle of nowhere and bloody humid, but this town build upon the river banks has some proper tubing waiting for you.
San Cipriano adventure
Get your tube from one of the many packed restaurant shacks, float down that river and finish off with an ice-cold Costeña beer and a big plate of the best local river prawns dish you can think of. When you’ve had you’re adventure fix, take the moto train back and this strange little jungle town suddenly all seemed like a dream. You gotta love Colombia!
Love,
Marthe
Photos by: M. Barends, J. Roeland ©
The Montañita Surf Guide: Surf's up in Ecuador
Ecuador
The Montañita Surf Guide: Surf's up in Ecuador
Ah, Montañita (map). Life is a beach and that’s actually enough said about this place. What a welcome to Ecuador! Surfing, tanning, and drinking freshly made Mojitos on the beach. I definitely don’t need much more to be happy as a clam. Since time is starting to tick, we thought we would only spend a day or two here, but the Montañita bug got to us. A week went by and we could’ve easily added a week or two (if not longer) to it.
Waves and raves in Montañita
Somewhere along the Ruta del Sol, you’ll drive past this bustling little beach town called Montañita. It’s not like there’s a lot to do, but the waves are amazing and the vibe is good. You can chase waves in Montañita more or less all year long as it’s some of the most consistent in South America. It’s a popular surf spot, so don’t expect empty line-ups. However, there are plenty of quiet spots around, if you’re up for a bit of exploring. There are two breaks in Montañita. A right-hander point break that can hold quite a bit of swell and is best surfed at upcoming tide and the Montañita beach break which offers both rights and lefts on a sandy bottom. Especially the latter is a fun wave for beginners.
A traveler's hotspot
Montañita beach itself is a proper marketplace with local salesman selling crochet bikinis, bracelets, cocktails, and food, while the town is like a mini version of Koh San Road (Bangkok). There are little street bars where you can get the most delicious juices and smoothies, little cafes to drink some proper Ecuadorian coffee, and plenty of places to fuel your body for another surf session. When the sun goes down, the music goes up in volume and you can dance the night away at the Lost beach club. Eat, sleep, surf, repeat and add a little bit of raving on the weekends. Can’t go wrong with that, right?
Do be aware that the party goes on all week long. So if you care for a good night’s rest, you definitely don’t wanna stay in the town’s center.
Escape the crowds
Not far from Montañita is the little town of Ayampe. Same amazing waves as in Montañita, but then with no one on it. The beach break offers both left- and right-handers and is best with upcoming to high tide. Ayampe is a tiny beach town that flies below the tourist radar and has the most chilled out vibe you can imagine. So, if you want a break from partying in Montañita this is your place. There’s only one thing to worry about, and that’s the waves.
Beach hunting
Another good option to escape the crowds is the beach of Los Frailes in the National Park of Machalilla. A beautiful bay with a deserted beach that doesn’t offer you a whole lot of surf, but definitely is worth the visit. Ideal for snorkeling along the cliffs and snoozing the day away with an ice cream or two in your hand.
The good life of Montañita
If only we could stop time. The Ecuadorian coast has been a treat, but we gotta keep on moving. So much more to discover in this beautiful country. So bye-bye waves and long lazy beach days, hello breathtaking Andes mountains and bustling city life!
Till we meet again for much more waves and Mojitos.
Marthe
Photos by: M. Barends, J. Roeland ©
Huaraz: Gem of the Peruvian Andes
Peru
Huaraz: Gem of the Peruvian Andes
Huaraz, a little gem hidden in the Northern Andes of Peru. The town itself was wiped out by an earthquake in the 1970s and needed to be built from scratch. The town is filled with Peruvian ladies wearing hats and braids, carrying children, crops, or groceries on their backs. But the town is not what should bring you here. The insane mountain range of the Cordillera Blanca with almost all mountain tops above 6000m does.
Hiking heaven in Huaraz
You can easily get lost in the endless hikes that are on offer and maybe even fill up a whole month of trekking if you’re up for it. We, unfortunately, didn’t have that amount of time, so we had to stick to the day hikes. And to be fair, we had nothing to complain about. We did a trekking to Laguna 69, which might be one the strangest things I’ve seen on this trip.
Laguna 69
Laguna 69 is a five-hour hike that will bring you up to 4600m above sea level to this mind-blowing glacier lake. It’s a beautiful hike through a valley surrounded by mountains, glaciers, and waterfalls. Cows come and greet you, and if you’re early enough you won’t see a soul. It all sounds pretty good so far, hey? Well, wait for the final kilometers.
At the end of the road
Hiking towards Laguna 69 means you are in for a ‘treat’. It all goes up, up, up. This might be a challenge on its own, wouldn’t it be that Laguna 69 seems to actually put you through a survival of the fittest test. With the altitude as an extra kicking your ass, we had to catch our breaths every 5 meters. But once you’re there it’s like giving birth (apparently, I’m not speaking from experience here). You forget the struggles that brought you to the end because it’s that mind-blowing. The water of this glacier lake seems unreal. It’s the brightest of the brightest blue surrounded by some sort of moon landscape. Bring yourself some food and there simply isn’t a better place in the world to have a picnic.
Hungry in Huaraz?
After a long and tiring day, Huaraz will welcome you with its good food. Since hiking and food are like two peas in a pot, you should treat yourself to a red curry with shrimps (or any other dish) at Chili Heaven when you get back. You can thank me later. Peace out Huaraz, hopefully, we’ll meet again soon!
Marthe
Photos by: M. Barends, J. Roeland ©
Lima: Our favorite restaurants
Peru
Lima: Our favorite restaurants
What to do while in Lima? Well, eat. This city is definitely the capital of gastronomic orgasms with its mouthwatering ceviches, Peruvian coffees, and delicious-looking food markets everywhere. I must admit we did try to do a lot of sightseeing and surfing, but every single time we got distracted by pisco sours, tequeños, and of course, Ceviche. Freshly caught that same morning and in every different variety you can imagine. Heaven. And don’t even get me started on the ocean views at some of those places. A good sunset makes everything taste better! Since sharing is caring we do give away a few of our favorites.
La Mar
All the credits for this place go to the American members of Team Seduction. According to them, when in Lima, you HAVE to go to La Mar. Who am I to disagree with them? So true. The Nikkei ceviche we had there was seriously one of the best things ever. I could have this for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, all day every day. La Mar will even turn seafood haters into lovers, no doubt about it.
Rafael
Oh Rafael, what a pleasure it was to meet. Thanks to momma we got to spoil ourselves while in Lima, and there’s no better place to do that than at Rafael. Not only does this place looks surprisingly good, the moment you open the menu you are lost. There wasn’t one thing on the menu that I didn’t want to try. The mix of Peruvian and Italian cuisine and lots of seafood (of course) just makes you wish you were a dog without any sense of filling up.
Mangos
Talking about dinner with a view. Although tucked away in the very commercial Larcomar shopping center, this place is definitely worth a visit. Mangos is built upon the cliffs, which gives you front row seats for the ocean. It’s a good spot for some snacks and a drink after a long stroll through Miraflores. Make sure you get there late afternoon so you can enjoy your cocktails with a sunset and paragliding daredevils.
Canta Rana
When in Rome, do like the Romans do. Or when in Lima, queue up in between locals to get a spot for lunch at Canta Rana. Definitely one of the best ceviches in town. Choosing between 17 variations of ceviche ranging from squid to shrimps to mixed fish and many more. You name it, they have it. Even if you only got 24 hours in Lima, this is a spot you don’t want to miss out on!
Buena Vista
Another place with a view. A bit away from the crowds, Buena Vista serves up real good coffee and delicious cakes. Their little garden up on the cliffs will make you never wanna leave. They do serve beers and good bottles of wine too. So why leave when it’s time for sundowners?
Lima is a foodie's heaven
Lima has been treating us so well. Leaving this place with our bellies filled with delicious food we are ready to discover the countryside again. The next destination is Huaraz, the ultimate opposite of a lively capital and home to some beautiful snowcapped mountains and glacier lakes. Let’s put those hiking boots back on and discover the world of the highest mountain range in South America!
Marthe
Photos by: M. Barends, J. Roeland ©
Machu Picchu and the Inca Jungle Trail
Peru
Machu Picchu and the Inca Trail
You can’t go to Peru and not see Machu Picchu. That’s like going to Paris and not see the Eiffel Tower. So once we entered this beautiful country we had a mission. Since I had my fair share of hiking already, I didn’t really feel the urge to walk the actual Inca trail (besides the fact that you have to book this 6 months in advance…). Instead, we signed up for an Inca Jungle trekking. Hiking, rafting, zip-lining, and mountain biking, it will all bring us closer to the ancient ruins of Machu Picchu.
Inca Jungle Trekking
Starting our adventure at 4200m with mountain biking the winding roads of the Andes was a good call. Properly geared up and ready to race down those mountains all the way down to 1500m. I might not be the ultimate Dutchie that loves cycling (quite the opposite to be fair), but honestly, this was pretty cool. The views were amazing, and so was the speed.
Extreme sports and good-looking outfits
It seems like it’s the trekking of looking ridiculous though. There’s something about extreme sports that don’t make you look very flattering. Looking like a Ninja during mountain biking, like a Power Ranger (and not the sexy yellow or pink one!) during zip lining, and just retarded during rafting. Oh well, you gotta own up to it, right? As an ultimate sucker for sports like these, you couldn’t make me happier though. Crazy rivers for one of the best rafting I’ve ever done, pretending to be Superman while zip-lining, and crossing canyons and rivers in very creative ways all add up to the adrenaline rush. And make me one happy camper.
Meet the locals
The Inca Jungle Trail is not all about mountains, rivers, extreme sports, and Machu Picchu as the cherry on the cake. It’s also about daily life and the local communities in this part of the Andes. We tried lots of locally grown fruits, the best chocolate ever, and some snake tequila. I do have to say that the meals were a bit strange. Dinners and lunches normally contain meat with rice, fries, mashed potatoes (from a package), and three green peas, if you’re lucky. I kid you not. Very nutritious. What makes them think that you need rice, fries, and mashed potatoes all at once?! I still haven’t figured this one out.
Machu Picchu sunrise sessions
Since Machu Picchu is of course the ultimate tourist attraction, you wanna make it up there before the rest of the crowd does. So there we went, hiking up those freaking steps at 4 in the morning. Only to arrive there together with a bunch of others who caught a bus at 5.30 am. It kind of feels like we’re doing something wrong here. Nonetheless, we actually get to say we followed the Inca footsteps all the way to the top.
The magic of Machu Picchu
As if the clouds knew we were coming, they slowly started to disappear the moment we set foot on the Inca premises leaving behind this gorgeous view of sky-high mountains and of course, Machu Picchu! Another place where words don’t seem to do it justice. A 360-degree view that can’t be beaten.
Back to civilization
Pretty much done with eating carbs 24/7 and hiking in humidity, it was time to make our way back to the beautiful city of Cusco. Longing for cold Corona’s, a very comfy bed, and good food we said goodbye to the mystical Andes and Machu Picchu. Another world wonder we can tick off our list. And Machu Picchu, you were absolutely magical.
Marthe
Photos by: M. Barends, J. Roeland ©
The Ultimate Peru Surf Guide
Peru
The ultimate Peru surf guide
We called ourselves Mokum Surf Club with the intention of telling you all about our surf adventures in South America (and anywhere else around the world), only to find out that there wasn’t that much surf going on in this part of the world. Yes, you can surf in Chile and apparently it is quite good but so, so cold. And that was exactly what I wanted to leave behind in Holland, no 5mm wetsuits on this trip, please! So I had to be patient a little longer, discovering all those other pretty places along the way. I got definitely nothing to complain about, but once I entered Peru the ocean started to call my name! With probably the oldest culture of surfing, it is not a bad place to start this adventure. So here we go… The first proper surf blog post with the best surf spots in Peru! No 5mm wetsuits needed.
Huanchaco
This little town has not much to offer, except surfing. It might not be the prettiest town or the prettiest beach, the surf is nonetheless quite good! It’s a lefthand point break that works during all tides. Huanchaco is a very consistent wave that works all year long with a S-SW swell, though the best months to visit are November till May. Just a few locals in the water, constant waves rolling in and the ’caballitos de tortora’ (one-man boats used by fisherman, probably the oldest form of surfing) add up to the charm. And don’t forget the freshly caught seafood waiting for you when you’re done.
Chicama
Some claim it’s the longest wave in the world. Ha! That’s something you gotta try at least once in your life right? Get lucky and ride this wave for about 2.2 km all at once. It’s definitely the longest lefthander in the world if it works. It needs quite a bit of South, South West swell for all breaks to connect, however, and apparently, your chances of this happening are highest in June. But even if Chicama isn’t connecting it’s well worth the trip down here. It’s a fun wave, perfect for intermediate surfers to work on their skills.
Mancora
Ok, maybe Máncora is not the most exciting surf spot in Peru, but what a nice little town to hang around for a bit. Not only do they have one of the best hostels you’ll come across in South America (Loki Máncora), you’ll get the prettiest sunsets, fun waves, and even kite-surfers can join in on the fun. There are an exposed beach reef and point break that mostly offer lefthanders. None of the spots rely on certain tides, so you can eat your heart out all day long. The good thing about Máncora is that you can leave your wetsuit at home, as this is the only warm water surf spot in Peru. Máncora is also one of the best surf spots in Peru to learn how to surf, as conditions are mellow and surf instructors are plenty.
Lobitos
With the desert as your background, fishing boats everywhere, and oil platforms on the horizon, Lobitos has quite a rough feeling to it. Besides that, it’s the number one surf spot in Peru I’ve been hearing through the grapevine. With fellow travelers being the best travel guide you can wish for, who am I to disagree with that? Lobitos offers one of the best left-hand barrels of northern Peru and will make you one happy clam. There are several breaks offering waves for all skill levels.
San Gallán (Paracas)
OK, I might be cheating here, but I can’t let you make the same mistake as I did. Unfortunately, I have to admit I haven’t been to this place, which I still regret up to this day. I only found out about this place a little too late, but based on stories and the incredible pictures of the scenery, I would recommend paying this place a visit. Not only Paracas but also San Gallán, the island in front of Paracas is worth the trip. This place apparently has one of the best right-breaking waves in Peru. It’s hollow, it’s fast, and it’s calling your name. The island is part of the Paracas National Reserve which means surfing in beautiful surroundings with hundreds of sea lions joining in on the wave.
Peru Surf Vibes
The good thing about the surf in Peru is that it hasn’t been discovered just yet. Nine out of ten times it’s just you and a few locals conquering the waves. No competition, year-round swell, and friendly Spanish chats while waiting for the next set to come in. The lack of tourism or even backpacking invasions makes the entire coastline of Peru such a chill place to soak up Peruvian surf life and get stuck while eating fresh seafood. Peru, you got me hooked.
Marthe
Photos by: M. Barends, J. Roeland ©
Salar de Uyuni: moon landscapes and dinosaur attacks
Bolivia
Salar de Uyuni: Moon landscapes and dinosaur attacks
I didn’t know much about those salt flats in Uyuni where I was going. Of course, I’ve seen all the silly pictures and I couldn’t wait till I got attacked by a dinosaur or two, but that was about it. Maybe it was actually for the best because I got blown away by the beauty of nature once again. Wondering what’s so special? Let me show you why Salar de Uyuni must be on your bucket list.
Four-day desert road trip to Uyuni
I did a four-day tour starting in Tupiza in the south of Bolivia which I can highly recommend. It’s been said that the tours starting from Tupiza are safer and less touristy than the ones from Uyuni. Plus you get to see more! I found myself an Israeli crew once again, so it’s still only my Hebrew that’s improving instead of my Spanish. We drove around in 4×4’s through absolutely insane landscapes. We had the sweetest guide/driver we could wish for, and went mental on Israeli and Spanish songs (got seriously overruled here on the DJ-part).
Keep those eyes wide open
The scenery we drove through was insane. Constantly changing. From open fields filled with lamas to strangely formed mountains to moon landscapes to lakes with very strange colors, and so on. Dipping into natural hot springs (that view… OMG), visiting geysers at 5200m, and mingling with a thousand flamingos was just day-to-day business. I normally fall asleep in driving vehicles, but I simply couldn’t close my eyes with all this beauty surrounding me.
Coco leaves tea diet
I do have to say it wasn’t all rosy. Tough as I thought I was, I told my doctor in The Netherlands I didn’t need altitude pills. Wow, what a failure was that. As soon as we got above 4000m I turned into this little bundle of misery, with the altitude kicking my ass big time. Since we spend about 70% of those four days above 4000m, you can do the math. I was on a Coco leave tea diet for four days straight. And yes, those are the leaves they use for making coke. Yes, they are completely legal in Bolivia (and Peru). They did magic.
Dinosaurs at Salar de Uyuni
We ended our four-day tour with a sunrise at the Uyuni Salt flats, and of course, game time! We had been collecting Surprise easter eggs, pink dinosaurs, superman dolls, and baby llamas, which all ended up being some sort of artifact. Even our poor cook, a proper Bolivian mama, ended up being a prop in our pictures and movies. It was absolutely freezing this early in the morning, but lots of fun we had.
Salar de Uyuni is only the beginning
I’ve been really enjoying Bolivia so far. It is so different from Chile and Argentina and really has its own identity. It feels a bit more like the ‘real’ South America with a lot of people wearing characteristic clothes, little rural villages, and crappy local buses. I can’t wait to see more of this place and discover all the crazy things it has to offer! Bring it on Bolivia…
Marthe
Photos by: M. Barends ©