The ultimate Southern Nicaragua surf guide
Nicaragua
The ultimate Southern Nicaragua surf guide
Rumour has it that surf’s up in Southern Nicaragua (map) these days. Not found by the crowds just yet, warm water waves most of the year, and a coast line scattered with good surf spots. It’s where the off shore winds blow all day long and never badly influence the waves. The place of dust and dryness, the place of smiles and friendly faces. Sounds like the perfect spot for a week of eat, sleep, surf, repeat, right? The Southwest coast of Nicaragua is renowned for some of the best uncrowded surf breaks in Central America, so it’s time to shine some light on these gems!
General Southern Nicaragua surf info
The surf in Southern Nicaragua is good all day long, so be ready for multiple surf sessions a day. Regardless of swell direction, tide or swell size, there’s always a break working. Do bring your shorty on this surf trip, as the water can be freezing. Especially during sunrise and sunset sessions, a little summer suit isn’t a luxury. Southern Nicaragua has an abundance of surf spots ranging from hollow beach breaks, long point breaks to racey reef breaks, so every surfer can eat their heart out. Best time to visit is between April and October, with its prime months being between May and September. However, we went in March and had perfectly fun waves and some bigger swells as well.
Playa Maderas
Playa Maderas is the beginner surf spot in Southern Nicaragua. The consistent beach break attracts a lot of people who are trying their first steps in the world of surfing. It works best with a Southern/South Western swell. Playa Maderas is probably the most crowded surf spot in Southern Nicaragua, so be aware of the flying foam boards and some fast moving locals. The place is easily accessible by car or foot depending on where you’re staying. There’s a few beach bars selling basic drinks and food. But if you’d like to have something good I would recommend going to Machete Market Cafe. Great coffee, good vibes and delicious food!
Honestly, Playa Maderas wasn’t really my cup of tea. It might be the time of year (beginning of March), but the waves weren’t that inviting. Closing out and messy, plus a whole bunch of idiots having no idea what they were doing. While watching it for a day I lost count of the (almost) accidents happening here. I’m sure it can get amazing here as well, but honestly, there are better spots around.
Balcones de Majagual
If I ever had to write a book, get something done without distractions or simply just want to escape reality I would book a trip straight to Balcones de Majagual. Up in the hills of Playa Maderas this gorgeous place is just pure tranquility. The Japanese inspired design of the houses is serious future house goals. There are several houses with space up to 8 people, which makes it the perfect spot for a surf trip with friends. The beds are super comfy, the kitchens are well equipped with basically anything you can think of, there’s a bbq on your outdoor terrace overlooking the Pacific and an infinity pool to cool down in. Need anything else? We guess not!
We do have to warn you. A reoccurring pattern in our quest for beautiful destinations seems to be those difficult dirt roads, which often require a 4×4. Balcones de Majagual is no exception in this and a 4×4 is not just a luxury, but needed (unless you love to carry your bags up a 70% incline hill).
Playa Manzanillo
Manzanillo is a fickle left hand reef point break that might be one of the hidden gems of Southern Nicaragua. The swell does need to be big enough and coming from the South-West in order for it to wrap into the bay, but if it does it might just become your favourite wave in the area. On its best days it can offer three barrel sections and a long ripable face to follow. Manzanillo works best on mid tide.
Only accessible by boat or if you feel like splurging by staying at the 5 star location Mukul.
Playa Colorado
Playa Colorado is a river mouth break that mostly goes left, and occasionally right. The wave is known for its big barrels and becomes better once the swell gets bigger. You won’t be the only one chasing barrels however, as the wave is getting more popular and known. Playa Colorado works on all tides (preferably South-West swells), giving it a different character depending on your moment of paddle out. In general it’s a powerful and consistent wave, hollow, racey and ripable, waiting for you to give you the barrel of your life.
Panga Drops
In case you wanna ditch the crowds, you might want to check out Panga Drops, at the Northern end of Playa Colorado. It is definitely not as consistent as Playa Colorado, but definitely worth keeping an eye on, on busy days. Playa Colorado is a private beach and is accessible either by boat, walking from Playa Gigante or if you stay in the community of Hacienda Iguana.
Playa Santana
If you like your barrels then Playa Santana is where you wanna go. Even if you don’t want to get barreled, this is where you will get barreled, so the locals say. This A-frame beach break wave turns on at mid till high tide, and keeps on working till outgoing mid tide, more or less. Even though it can be a powerful, punchy wave, the spot is suitable for both intermediates and more advanced surfers. Playa Santana is accessible by foot, car and boat.
Malibu Popoyo
Located between Playa Santana and Popoyo you can find one of my all time favourite surf hideouts; Malibu Popoyo. Ideally my holiday would look something like that famous eat, sleep, surf, repeat, and that’s exactly how you roll at Malibu Popoyo. Waking up in a comfy bed, twice a day surf sessions with a surf guide, delicious food (oh, how I miss their breakfasts), napping by the pool, watching the sunset on the beach with a cocktail in my hand. Pure happiness. The spacious rooms with king size beds and rain showers are literally all you need after a day spent in the ocean.
Surf at Malibu Popoyo
As for the surf, Jared is your guy. Whether you’ve never surfed before, or like your waves gnarly and barreling, this guy knows where to take you. Staying at Malibu Popoyo includes daily surf trips, so whatever wave you are looking for, Jared will bring you there. Because of the amazing collection of rental surfboards at Malibu Popoyo you can travel light and pick your HyptoKrypto, Mayhem or Slater Design on the spot and even swap boards depending on the conditions.
Popoyo
The beach of Popoyo has several breaks for different levels, but the main draw of this place is the Popoyo main break. A world class, always working, beach break with picture perfect A-frames. Lefthanders, righthanders; this wave is spilling goodness all day long.
About 200m left from the main break, towards Playa Santana and Magnific Rock, there’s a more friendly beginner break. Or if you feel like Popoyo’s main break got nothing on you, you can always give The Beast/The Outer Reef a try. A monstrous wave that only the best expert surfers can handle. Even from a distance this wave was intimidating.
Make sure to grab some sundowners at Finca Popoyo, a beach bar overlooking the main break and The Beast. Stunning sunset views and frozen cold beers guaranteed.
Popoyo is accessible by car, foot or boat, depending on where you’re staying.
Playa Guasacate
Playa Guasacate is your perfect hangout if you wanna surf every day without too much effort. No need for boat trips if you don’t feel like it, no need for cars or motorbikes to get to the spot, everything you need is on walking distance. There’s the river mouth spot for beginners/intermediates which works best on mid to high tide.
And then there is Popoyo’s main break. A two minute walk (and a little swim through the river with high tide) from your bed and you’re on one of the best surf spots of Nicaragua.
We stayed at TwoTen Surf Home, which is a brand new place with little houses as close to the Popoyo surf spot as you can get. You got your own little kitchen, hammocks swaying in the wind, and the sound of the waves as background music. Basically anything you need without breaking the bank.
Just down the road you can find The S’cool Yard and Club Surf Popoyo, our two favourite food spots in town. The S’cool Yard is a laid back bar with a skate ramp and some seriously good burgers and Asian fare. It reminded us a bit of Pretty Poison in Bali, but then without the hype. Club Surf Popoyo is your not so standard Italian restaurant. Really, really, yummy pizzas, pastas and tiramisu. Their seafood tagliatelle is so full of flavour and comes with crunchy focaccia, a dish I could seriously consider eating every day.
Playgrounds
Playgrounds is living up to its name; a fun and playful wave suitable for both intermediates and advanced surfers. It’s a reef break and offers some of the best ripable waves of Nicaragua. The wave mostly breaks left, but can have some short right-handers as well. Playgrounds is only accessible either by boat.
Lance's Left
This break works best during low to mid tide and can hold some very long lefts. It does need a bit of swell in order to hold the almost 300-500m rides. However, Lance’s Left is a fun, consistent, break for all skill levels and does break on almost all swell sizes.
Accessible by boat or if you walk around the point of Playa Astillero during low tide. Be aware of petty theft here, so don’t leave anything at the beach.
Bring on the Nicaragua surf days
This was our first visit to Nicaragua, but definitely not our last. We loved the rawness of the landscapes, the little dusty towns, the endless stretches of coastline, the constant waves, the friendliness of the people. It’s a whole lot cheaper than Costa Rica as well, which makes it a more budget friendly option or just a reason to extend your holiday a little longer. Even though planning a surf trip isn’t what it’s used to be these days, we wouldn’t waste a second doubting on a trip to surf in Nicaragua. So, see you when we can Nica waves!
Love,
Marthe
Recap
Do you rather look at images than reading stories? No worries, we have a short recap of everything you need to know below.
Best time to visit
The best time to visit Nicaragua for surfing is between April and October
Our hotel picks
If you are on a bit of a budget TwoTen Surf home is your best pick, but if you wanna go for proper holiday vibes than Malibu Popoyo and Balcones de Majagual is where you wanna go.
Currency
Nicaraguan Cordobas or US Dollars.
Water temperature
Between 24ºC or 75ºF in January/February to 29ºC or 84ºF in June - October.
Best surf spots
Beginners: Playa Maderas or Magnific Rock
Intermediates: Playa Popoyo, Lance's Left
Advanced: Playa Popoyo, Playa Colorado, Playa Santana, Manzanillo.
Weather
An almost always steady 28 ºC or 82ºF.
Dry Season: December - April
Rainy Season: May - November
COVID-19 in Costa Rica: the current situation and what can we do to help
Costa Rica
COVID-19 in Costa Rica: the current situation and what we can do to help
Updated: 27 January 2021
The world is in a still and Costa Rica is no exception in this. Who would’ve thought that something like COVID-19 would happen and would literally freeze the whole wide world? When this all started we felt like we were part of some bad science fiction movie. We were still on holidays in Nicaragua living the careless surfer life. COVID-19 in Costa Rica or Nicaragua didn’t seem like a real worry. It was still something far, far away in Asia. Little did we know back then.
Three days after our return to Costa Rica all borders closed due to COVID-19. Tourists started to panic about going home as fast as possible and the streets became empty. Fast forward six months later, how’s Costa Rica doing now? Will you be able to enjoy your holidays here? Come surf those warm water waves, explore its luscious jungles? We’ll give you a full update on COVID-19 in Costa Rica and what it may mean for you and for the local communities.
COVID-19 restrictions in Costa Rica
Compared to the rest of Central and South America, Costa Rica has actually been doing really well. However, there is an increase in cases at the moment, which makes the country divided into both Orange (stricter) and Yellow alert areas. The two areas have different restrictions, so it’s advisable to look into which situation your destination is. Yellow or orange, what are the restrictions, and what do they mean for you?
- Since November 1st tourists from all over the world can visit Costa Rica. Tourists are only welcome via air travel.
- Foreigners entering must complete de epidemiological form, which is known as the “Health Pass”.
- Costa Rica does not require a negative coronavirus test.
- Foreigners entering must have travel insurance covering medical care or unexpected extended hotel stay.
- People who haven’t been able to leave the country and are staying here on a tourist visa can legally remain in Costa Rica till the 2nd of March 2021.
- Most common tourist attractions are allowed to operate normally. This includes all open-air activities like hiking, horseback riding, ziplining, snorkeling, etc
- Most National parks are open. Tickets can only be purchased online.
- Beaches are partly open from 5 am till 6 pm daily in Yellow alert regions. During this time frame, you are allowed to go surfing, spend time on the beach, go for a walk, you name it! However, you’re not allowed to gather on the beach.
- Movies, theaters, gyms, and salons are open with restrictions until 10 pm. Ticket purchases for movies and theaters can only be done online.
- Hotels and accommodations may operate at 100%, while restaurants may operate at 50% of their normal capacity. Online check-ins and payments are advised. Approved bars and casinos are open at 50% of their normal capacity and are restricted to similar opening hours as all other establishments.
- When going to public places, people are requested to wear face masks and avoid singing, shouting, or speak loudly. Also, keep a 6ft/1.8m distance from other people.
- The nighttime vehicular restriction runs between 10 p.m. and 5 a.m. the following morning. Most driving is forbidden in this timeframe.
Stay updated
The current increase in cases mostly takes place in the central valley of Costa Rica. That’s why most of these restrictions are different up there. If you’d like to follow the official news on COVID-19 in Costa Rica you can check out the websites of the Ministerio de Salud or the Tico Times.
How has Costa Rica been affected?
Needless to say COVID-19 impacts Costa Rica massively. Tourism is one of its main businesses. Whether it’s people postponing, or canceling their planned trip altogether, it means a lack of income for many people and their families. In case you do decide to cancel your trip to Costa Rica in the upcoming months, we would advise you not to ask for refunds. The majority of businesses in tourism are small businesses. In order for these businesses to keep existing, they are depending on you and your deposits. Ask them to hold on to your deposit until better times.
Our personal experience and what you can do to help
As you may know, we currently live in the South of Costa Rica, in a little town called Punta Banco. Just minutes away from the world-famous Pavones wave. This area depends entirely on tourism and is struggling big time these days. COVID-19, however, is not present in this area. With hotels being empty, boats onshore, restaurants closed, low season on the doorstep, and no light at the end of the tunnel in the foreseeable future, people are having a hard time. With the tourist season possibly starting in December 2020/January 2021 again, it might mean there won’t be any income for almost a year.
Food packages for Punta Banco
On behalf of Rancho Burica we have set up a GoFundMe page to raise money for food packages for the local workers and their families. We have been handing out these food packages to 14 families since June. We have put together these packages full of nutritious products locally sourced, to support local businesses. Every single dollar can count and even the smallest contribution can make a huge difference for one of the families here. If you would like to help out, you can find more information about the project here. 100% of donations will go into these food packages.
Silver linings
Even though the world is going through an incredibly hard time, we love to see how people are getting together and support one another. There are many beautiful ideas born out of this situation. A situation that must be hard for everybody, no matter where you live or how fortunate you are. We hope that amongst all the harder times, there’s also a whole lot of positivity and silver linings.
Maybe you won’t be able to come down to Costa Rica for that surf trip you’ve been looking forward to for months. However, you can provide a helping hand for the families that you would’ve met and helped if the world was still its good old self. And you know what… Costa Rica isn’t going nowhere. The palmtrees will always sway in the wind, the waves will always roll in, the monkeys will always wake you up with their howling sounds. She will be waiting for you, along with big thankful smiles and whole lot of Pura Vida vibes. Stay safe and healthy!
Love,
Marthe
Photos by: M. Barends & J. Roeland ©.
Panama City Guide: the melting pot of new and old.
Panama
Panama City Guide: the melting pot of new and old
Panama, it never really had a draw on me. Until we moved to Costa Rica and we’ve been visiting this gem of a country quite regularly. As some of you might know, we are currently living in one of the most beautiful places on earth; Punta Banco. A town literally at the end of the road, with constant waves rolling in and the sounds of the jungle surrounding us. Paradise you might call it. But even paradise has its downsides after a little while (no not complaining, not at all!), and for us city people, after 9 months of sun, beach, ocean, and jungle, we were in desperate need of a bit of city excitement. So Panama City it is! Let’s see if this bustling cosmopolitan city can light our fire.
The big Panama City rooftop bar test
We figured out pretty quickly what our main goal was going to be as soon as we arrived in Panama City (map). Of course, we’ll be doing some classical sightseeing as well, but you can read all about that on basically any blog about Panama City. We figured we needed to bring you something else. As Panama City is basically showered in rooftop bars we present to you The Panama City Rooftop Bar Test! Yes, there are plenty of cities in the world with plenty of kickass rooftop bars, but not many of them will beat the Latino tunes, historical vibes, and two-cities-in-one-view. Already wondering which ones are our favorites? Here you go!
Lazotea
I guess Lazotea is our favorite rooftop bar. Especially for sunset drinks and a delicious dinner. The views are spectacular, with the “new” Panama City just across the bay. Sunset hour has always been my favorite hour, but with a view like this, I like it even more. The staff is incredibly friendly, the food delicious (I mean, truffle mac&cheese), and the vibe contagious. It’s the place where you wanna put your dress and heels on, but without feeling pretentious (we came back in shorts and flip-flops and enjoyed it just as much). Oh, and they got a swimming pool! Just saying. Great place to start your night on the town with drinks and dinner and then continue towards Tantalo Bar for a bit of dancing till the sun comes up.
Tantalo Bar
This is your go-to place for a party. We’ve noticed that it didn’t really matter which day of the week you would go to Tantalo, there’s a party vibe any time. Sip on your cocktail, watch the sparkles all over the city and socialize with fellow travelers. Good spot for people watching, after dinner drinks, and lots of dancing till the sun rises again.
Casa Casco
A good old classic rooftop bar with a view overlooking the old town of Panama City. When entering Casa Casco you feel like you should put some heels on and wear that one fancy dress you have on the bottom of your backpack. It’s the place to dress up and be seen. They’ve got some delicious wines (going beyond the standard Chilean Chardonnay/Sauvignon Blanc served anywhere else around Central America) and snacks to enjoy that sunset to the fullest. The only downside might be the prices that are just as sky-high as the rooftop bar itself. But then again, sometimes you just gotta live and splurge.
Where to sleep in Panama City
After dancing the night away or strolling around the city, there’s nothing better than a big comfy bed to relax and a safe haven to escape city life. As there are many different areas in Panama City with each their draws and beauty, it might be hard to choose a place to stay. However, if we can give you any advice, it would be to stay in Casco Viejo. The old town with its small streets, rooftop bars, creaking old houses, and an endless load of charm, is definitely where you wanna be.
Las Clementinas
The absolute best place to stay in Panama City would be Las Clementinas. In the middle of the Casco Viejo area, this boutique-style hotel has everything you need. Spacious apartments with your own kitchen, good showers, a comfy bed, and a rooftop overlooking the old and the new of Panama City. The place is beautifully decorated with art deco details, a romantic courtyard and balconies all around to see daily life passing by. The fact they have one of the best breakfast places in the lobby makes this place even more perfect for your citytrip!
Everyone at Las Clementinas will make you feel at home, with attentive gestures during your whole stay. Thanks to them we found this gem of a restaurant called Caliope, which we would’ve never found otherwise. So Las Clementinas is not just a nice, very good looking hotel, but a pretty rad tour guide as well. We loved staying here as it is so centrally located and you really got everything you need for the perfect city escape!
Where to eat in Panama City
City strolling makes you hungry. At least it does to me. Nothing better to escape the heat and busyness a bit, than relaxing in some hidden garden or pretty coffee spot. We noticed that Panama City has many different options in many different price classes as well. You can go all out, or eat the most delicious things on a budget. Perfect, right? Find our favorites right here!
Mahalo
This cute little lunch spot was actually advised to us by one of you guys! Lucky for us we have such like-minded readers, that give such awesome tips! Mahalo is the perfect place during your stroll through Casco Viejo. With a lush garden and delicious healthy shakes and dishes, you can either hop in for a bit of refreshment or make this your work-hangout. There are so many good breakfast and lunch options here, that you just gotta keep coming back for more.
Brutto Restaurant
Our most recent discovery in the food scene of Panama City is Brutto. And what a gem this is! It’s definitely one of the more fancy restaurants in Panama City, but absolutely worth the splurge. There’s a huge menu, which might make it hard to pick your poison. To help you out a bit; definitely try out the Brussel Sprouts, Crispy Tuna, Lobster Rolls, and Tacos Don Julio. We are already looking forward to our next visit, so we can explore more of that fantastic menu. Extra shoutout for the incredible staff as well; we definitely had one of the best experiences in Panama City here!
Crepes & Waffles
I’ve been wanting to recommend this place for years already, but couldn’t find the place for it in the right article. I found out about Crepes & Waffles in Colombia quite a few years ago. And every time I discovered one, I was “semi-splurging” my backpackers budget with some good excuse (it’s Friday/I’ve walked a lot/I haven’t been out for dinner in a week/etc.) on waffles. However, to my biggest and most exciting surprise, there was a Crepes & Waffles in Panama City as well! Hallelujah! So, this time I dragged the boyfriend here three times in a week for the exact same order every time: Moroccan salad and berry waffles with chocolate sauce. YUM, YUM, YUM.
Caliope
If you’re up for a night of dressing up or a guaranteed successful date night, then make sure to book a table at Caliope. Easily overlooked, as we passed it several times and there’s no obvious sign of a hip and happening restaurant from the street. It actually adds to the experience, the moment you take the elevator up and enter this beautifully loft-like restaurant with lounge tunes and cosmopolitan vibes. The menu was a hard one for me, as choosing almost seemed impossible with so many good things going on. Never ever dare to miss out on their chocolate surprise dessert with warm white chocolate sauce. It’s heaven on a plate or maybe even better than that.
Aki Sushi Bar
We’re not the first ones to mention Aki, and probably not the last ones either. This sushi hotspot is just a really nice place for a fun dinner. It’s a good value for money place, with tasty sushi, funky interior (proper Japanese vibes), and original drinks with Japanese influences. They even got a sushi/cocktail happy hour from 4 PM till 7 PM. Told you, worth mentioning.
Tomillo Panamá
Are you in Panama City for the weekend? Then make sure to head to Tomillo for a night of delicious food, live music, beautiful people, and splendid cocktails. Tomillo is located in the ‘new’ part of Panama City, but the patio garden definitely takes you back to other times. We keep on returning here for one dish especially; Arroz con Mariscos. A big plate of fragrant rice with lots of seafood that is just SO good. Definitely a must-visit when in town, but do make reservations as it’s often very busy!
Corcho
Ask for a glass of wine anywhere in Central or Latin America, and chances are about 100% you’ll get a cheap Chilean/Argentinian Malbec or Sauvignon Blanc. Nothing exciting, nothing really tasty. That is, until we found Corcho! This tiny wine bar in Casco Viejo has a massive selection of wines from all over the world, by the glass! Taste your way through their wine list, while munching on some delicious snacks, and enjoying street life of the old town. We guarantee you, it’s the perfect spot after a day of exploring.
Eat, explore, enjoy, repeat
I think we got you set for a week full of eating and exploring the cultural melting pot of Panama City. We never expected it to be as much fun as it was. After lots of eating, dancing, shopping, strolling, and exploring, our hearts are filled with good experiences. Panama City has refueled us again for beaches, waves, and remoteness, but we can’t wait to return to explore more of this amazing city.
Hasta Luego,
Marthe
Recap of Panama City
Do you rather look at images than reading stories? No worries, we have a short recap of everything you need to know below.
Best time to visit
You can visit Panama City all year through. We went in January and in July and had a fabulous time on both occasions.
Our hotel picks
Without a doubt Las Clementinas.
Currency
US Dollars.
Where to eat
Mahalo or Crepes & Waffles for breakfast and lunch, Caliope for dinner, Lazotea for drinks.
Best rooftop bars
Lazotea is our favorite for dinner and drinks!
Weather
Always summer, always 28°C or 82.4°F (more or less).
Dry season: December - April
Rainy season: May - November
Photos by: J. Roeland & M. Barends©
The Ultimate Bocas del Toro Guide
Panama
The Ultimate Bocas del Toro Guide
Hanging around in surf towns can be quite fruitful if you wanna discover new surf spots. That’s exactly how we got tipped off on this tropical archipelago in the Panamanian Caribbean called Bocas del Toro (map). Wait, what? Waves in the Caribbean? Good ones? As far as I know, this is quite unique. Bocas del Toro has been on our radar ever since, but we only got a chance to visit this beautiful place last September. And guess what, no waves. I’m not kidding. As September and October are the driest months, the waves disappear. There goes our Bocas del Toro Surf guide. However, we could use some sunshine (as the rainy season was starting on our side in Costa Rica), and we figured this would be the perfect excuse to discover the “other side” of Bocas del Toro. We just gotta come back in December to surf those killer waves.
What to do on Bocas del Toro
Since our first visit to Bocas del Toro was in September, we found out pretty quickly that this was basically the flattest month of all. So, no waves, no surfing. What should we do with our lives?! As we spend ten days on the islands of Bocas del Toro and weren’t bored once, I think we found some pretty awesome activities for those flat days.
Take the boat to Cayo Zapatilla
Every single hotel or hostel will be able to offer you a tour of these beautiful islands. However, you’ll be cramped in a boat with 20 others. Our wonderful hosts at Surfbreak at Paunch arranged a private boat for us, that took us out to Dolphin Bay, snorkeling around Cayo Coral and Cayo Zapatilla for 40USD each with just the four of us. We spend the whole day on the boat and saw some of the most beautiful places I’ve ever seen in my life. Not to mention that we could have our own schedule, therefore ditching the “masses”. I can highly recommend discovering those beautiful places this way, as it feels way more special.
Visit Isla Bastimentos
Just a ten-minute boat ride from Isla Colon, but it feels like a completely different world. The people who live here actually speak a different language, that some of the people on Isla Colon won’t even understand. With true Caribbean vibes, music pumping out of nearly every house and shop, and lots of colorful houses, the town of Bastimentos is worth a visit. But not just its unique town is a sight, also the surrounding beaches and mangrove forests are absolutely stunning. So spent a day (or a few) here and walk around the little town, visit Red Frog’s beach or Wizard’s beach and go for a surf, or stop by for a sunset dinner at the Firefly.
Playa del Drago & Playa Estrella
Maybe the most famous place in Bocas del Toro is Playa Estrella, also known as Starfish Beach. The crystal clear waters and white sands are home to a population of beautiful starfish. However, due to some idiot tourists who want nothing more than holding starfish for their perfect Instagram picture, the population is dying and by far not as abundant as it used to be. So please, please, pretty please, when you go there, don’t touch them or pick them up. They are wild animals that will die if you do.
Take the bus to Bocas del Drago
That being said, I can also recommend taking the local bus to this place. Not a boat tour, because you’ll miss out on the real gem. You can catch the bus on the Bocas Town square, which will take you to Playa Boca del Drago. From there on it’s about a 15-minute walk to Playa Estrella. This walk is absolutely gorgeous. Little private beaches, fifty shades of blue and green water, dolphins playing around if you’re lucky, and palm trees in abundance swaying in the ocean breeze. This walk is magical, and you definitely don’t wanna miss out on it!
Take the bikes to Bluff Beach (and beyond)
Thanks to our friends at Island Plantation we got to rent some bikes and discover the beautiful surroundings of Bluff Beach. It has an end of the road feel, with its sandy road along the beach. At the end of Bluff Beach, you can actually keep on biking towards the Blue Lagoon and some other deserted beaches where you can go for a swim. We didn’t come across any soul (just some howler monkeys) and absolutely enjoyed this hidden part of Bocas.
Where to eat
Capitan Caribe
Dear guys of Capitan Caribe, we miss your burgers. We talk about them all the time. There isn’t any chance we can get the recipe, right? Or kidnap one of you to take home? What we would do to have one of their burgers right now. And their ceviche. Did we already say we miss it?
Ciao Pizza
It seems like running a business on your front lawn is a thing here in Bocas del Toro. And it also seems like these are our favorite places to eat. Ciao Pizza is easily one of our favorite hangouts for a quick dinner. While sitting on picnic tables waiting for your deliciously smelling pizza from the wood oven, you can’t help but think, damn life is best when it’s simple. The crispy thin wood oven pizza covered with anchovies and artichokes was our absolute favorite, although it was hard to pick one with all the serious competition on the menu.
Octo
Hidden in one of the side streets of Bocas town is this little garden restaurant. The idea is simple; seafood on the grill. And it is delicious. Their octopus just melts in your mouth with so much flavor to it. Absolutely finger-licking good. And so is their tuna sandwich. Every bite makes you longing (yes, longing) for another one. Especially when it’s your buddy’s burger, and not yours.
Cafe del Mar
We literally stumbled upon this little cafe in Bocas Town. It’s the perfect hangout for breakfast or lunch with some delicious coffees. Try out their smoothie bowls, wraps, or paninis. You’re totally allowed to come back every morning in order to test their whole menu.
Where to sleep
Surfbreak at Paunch
As we mentioned earlier, during our stay in Bocas del Toro we stayed at Surfbreak at Paunch. There couldn’t be a more suitable name for this place. Playa Paunch with its surf break is literally down the little hill, and from your balcony, you can basically check out the waves. You can’t get much closer to one of the best surfs on the island. Want to be the first in the water without having to wake up in the middle of the night? Then this is your spot! With their comfortable cabins surrounded by nature, this really is a great option to stay.
When you’re all surfed out after your sunrise surf, there’s nothing you want more than a killer breakfast, right? Well, they know how to satisfy those needs at Surfbreak at Paunch. With a daily changing breakfast menu with yogurt and granola, juices, and all kinds of hearty dishes you will be sure to be one happy camper before it’s even 10 am. Make sure to take the breakfast casserole when it’s on offer because it’s everything you need after that surf session.
Island Plantation
Feel like you need some pampering after all that traveling? Then Island Plantation is where you wanna stay on Isla Colon. It feels like a five-star retreat, without the arrogance that sometimes comes with this kind of places. The rooms are spacious, the beds are dangerously comfortable, the pool is gorgeous and the food is delicious. Add the extremely welcoming vibe to this and the fact that walking around barefoot all day long is the bar, and we were sold. The place is absolutely gorgeous, and only footsteps away from beautiful deserted Bluff Beach. A surf spot for the daredevils among us (as it is close to shore, steep and some unforgiving reef underneath), or the ultimate beach bar for some horizontal relaxing.
Casa Comunal
How about a surf trip with 6 or 13 of your friends? Doesn’t that just sound like the best holiday? We found you THE coolest spot to stay only footsteps from Paunch break. Casa Comunal might be our dream house, with its industrial architecture and design. I mean, hammocks and swinging beds in the living room? You can either rent out the whole house and get a big group together, or half of the house with just the 6 of you. The house comes with a massive kitchen and equally big dining table, made for long after surf dinners (or take away pizzas from Ciao Pizza just across the road).
Plenty of reasons to go back to Bocas del Toro
As we said, Bocas del Toro is a playground. For both surfers and non-surfers. There’s plenty of things to do and explore, although we couldn’t help but think we gotta come back for those notorious surf breaks. We still owe you a surf guide, right? I guess we gotta sleep at the exact same places, eat in the same restaurants and spend our days in the water to find out more about this secret surf spot! See you soon Bocas del Toro!
Love,
Marthe
Recap of Bocas del Toro
Do you rather look at images than reading stories? No worries, we have a short recap of everything you need to know below.
Best time to visit
The best months for surfing in Bocas del Toro are from November till April and June-July. Don't wanna surf, but just avoid the rain then September and October are your months to go.
Our hotel picks
If you're on a bit of a budget then Surfbreak at Paunch is a great place to stay. The ultimate dream accommodations on the islands are definitely Island Plantation and Casa Comunal.
Currency
US Dollars.
Where to eat
Octo and Ciao Pizza are not to be missed.
What to do
Rent a bicycle to explore Isla Colon, take a boat trip to Cayo Zapatillo and explore Bocas del Drago.
Weather
The always steady and perfect Caribean temperature of 30ºC/86ºF.
Dry season: September-October
Rainy season: Rest of the year (but not heavy)
Photos by: Mokum Surf Club ©.
Lodges Ekologika on Portibi Farms: a garden of Eden in Java
Indonesia
Lodges Ekologika on Portibi Farms: a garden of Eden in Java
We often go to destinations and find a place to sleep. But sometimes places to sleep are a destination worth visiting themselves. After spending a week in incredibly busy Jakarta I was literally longing for some peace and quiet. A place without traffic, without smog, without 10 million people. We heard about Lodges Ekologika on Portibi Farms and figured this was the exact place we were in need of. It’s an eco-lodge retreat in the mountains just two hours from Jakarta. Sounds perfect, right? We could definitely use some fresh mountain air.
Gateway to paradise
Arriving on Portibi Farms was just like I imagined it. Getting there on a bumpy road, getting lost twice. But when we arrived it was silent, birds and butterflies everywhere, and so incredibly lush. Views over the valley as far as the eye could see. Just everything completely opposite of the busy city of Jakarta. We were planning on staying for just one night on our way down to the coast but extended pretty quickly.
What makes Portibi Farms so amazing?
You can be as active here as you wish. Climb a mountain, hike to a waterfall, get a farm tour, help out in the kitchen or do absolutely nothing. It’s all completely up to you. There are board games, a huge music collection, and books and magazines to choose from. You won’t be bored, that’s for sure. Portibi Farms is a place to relax, unwind and leave all your troubles behind.
Sleeping with the sound of nature
As nature is one of the most important foundations at Portibi Farms, both in a way of enjoying it, learning from it, and giving back to it, it seems pretty logical that your room will be surrounded by it as well. Portibi Farms is not like a standard hotel in that way. The rooms are scattered around the premises, each with an incredible view over the valley and plenty of privacy caused by the beautiful forest. With open-air bathrooms and very comfy beds, it’s easy to give your body some rest here.
The Mokum Food Club
There’s one thing in particular that needs to be mentioned here, ‘cause Portibi Farms knows a thing or 100 about cooking up good food. I can almost start calling this blog the Mokum Food Club, as I notice I’m talking food here in every story sooner or later. Well, so I am now again. We simply cannot NOT mention the food here. Fish from the BBQ, Indonesian satay, homemade ravioli, delicious salads, pancakes for breakfast… this really is my kinda place. The fun thing is they enjoy teaching you a thing or two, which made me end up in the kitchen making ravioli for the first time in my life.
Eat, sleep, relax, repeat
So, if there’s one thing you should definitely do when traveling around Java, it’s pampering yourself at Portibi Farms. There aren’t many places as tranquil, relaxing, and unique as Lodges Ekologika. Your host Jocean is a champ with a big love for good wine (which is very rare to find around Asia!), delicious food, great tunes, and awesome stories, so make sure to join him for an evening filled with laughter at the Pacifist Cannibals Lounge (aka bar). Portibi Farms is such a magical place, which makes you extend your stay in a heartbeat.
Marthe
For questions or bookings visit their website here.
Photos by: Mokum Surf Club©.
Cimaja: the perfect surf escape in Java
Indonesia
Cimaja: The perfect surf escape in Java
Located in West Java, about a six-hour drive down south from Jakarta, you’ll find Cimaja (map). A typical Indonesian town set in between the green rice fields that keeps a little secret. Waves to be exact, good ones. Not a lot of foreigners find their way down here, and the ones who do are mainly surfers. A lot of surfers are heading straight to Bali or the world-class breaks of the Mentawais in Sumatra, but Java got some good ones as well. And the best thing about them… they are all yours.
Surf info Cimaja
Cimaja has several spots that work well during different conditions. The most famous one is ‘The Point’, a right-hand reef break that can hold some heavy swells, just a short paddle out. It works all year round, although you’ll find the best waves during the dry season from April till November. The reef break can suit all levels of surfing, from beginners to pros. Even though The Point is a popular spot for locals, the waves aren’t crowded at all. Do keep in mind that during the weekend and holidays people come down here all the way from Jakarta, so it might get a bit more crowded. But don’t worry, rent a bike and cruise around, ‘cause there are several hidden gems that will give you empty lineups even during the weekend.
Where to stay in Cimaja
Cimaja Square
Surfing makes you hungry, so visiting Cimaja can only be done with at least one decent eatery, right? Cimaja Square is where you wanna go. This place is famous for its pizzas on weekend days, but the best thing is actually their accommodation. Cimaja Square has beautiful Javanese huts scattered in the rice fields. Hammocks swaying in the wind with a view so beautiful it’s hard to get out. Just a short walk from the main surf break “The Point”, this really is a gem of a place.
Cimaja Beach Club
Another great sleeping option is Cimaja Beach Club. You simply can’t get any closer to the pebble stone beach and its waves than this spot. These modern houses are literally two steps from the ocean, so you can be the first in and last out in the water. Not that familiar with the local breaks or don’t feel like paddling out when there’s a busy lineup? Don’t worry, the staff is your ultimate surf guide, knowing all about the local breaks, and when and where to surf.
Batik Fins
When you’re in Cimaja and you crashed into the pebble stones breaking your dear fins while practicing your surf skills, don’t worry. Pay Batik Fins a visit. You actually don’t really need an excuse. This guy makes beautiful handmade fins with bamboo and local fabrics. You can actually design your own, as long as you’re in town for five days or more (or give him heads up). 10% of his profits go to charity, so you’re supporting the local community as well by buying these beauties.
Chasing waves in Java
For those who love some uncrowded waves, true Javanese culture, and stunning scenery, Cimaja is a definite go see. Chasing waves is a fun thing to do in this beach town. So rent a motorbike, cruise through endless rice fields, and find that spot that keeps you busy for days. Indonesia is one lucky country with so many waves coming in, that’s for sure.
Love,
Marthe
Photos by: M. Barends & J. Roeland©.
Svarga Loka: A jungle wellness resort in Ubud
Bali
Svarga Loka: A jungle wellness resort in Ubud
A little pampering now and then doesn’t kill anybody. I mean, don’t we all need a massage once in a while? Or a bit of yoga to let go of all those worries and busy thoughts? And while you’re at it, it might as well be at a top-notch location. Can we do a suggestion? What about Svarga Loka in Ubud. An absolute treasure in the hills of Ubud completely focused on your wellbeing.
Indiana Jones goes soft
So imagine this; a true Indiana Jones setting, with beautiful houses hidden in between the greens of the jungle. Trees that have been growing there for decades are kept intact. In fact, not a single tree was chopped during building Svarga Loka. I can tell you, this is something special in Bali, where the whole island is being taken over by tourism.
There’s a certain calmness around Svarga Loka that makes you forget you’re only a 5-minute walk away from downtown Ubud. At Svarga Loka you hear the river flowing below you, you hear the monkeys howling in the trees, and the birds and bees buzzing around you. These calming sounds follow you wherever you go or whatever you do, which makes wandering around Svarga Loka quite soothing.
Svarga Loka lures you in
A setting like Svarga Loka doesn’t need much more to give you an amazing experience. But it didn’t end there. At Svarga Loka they go above and beyond to make you feel at home. The rooms are absolutely gorgeous, with bathrooms overlooking the surrounding jungle and beds so comfy you wish to stay in there way longer than the advised 8 hours of sleep a night. Breakfast is served in their beautiful restaurant with so many (healthy) delicious options you can survive the rest of the day without any other meal. In fact, I think you might need a bit of break at one of the two(!!) infinity pools afterward. I assure you, it will be hard, very hard, to leave this place.
Body, Mind, and Soul
It’s all about body, mind, and soul at Svarga Loka and you can choose whichever of the three you want to spoil for a bit. Be active or not at all, dive into your deepest thoughts or let them fly out of your head the moment you arrive, it’s all up to you. One way to spoil yourself is with a Balinese Massage, which you can have in one of their open-air couple rooms. Best. Thing. Ever. Even if you’re not staying at Svarga Loka, book yourself into their spa for one of those. I can tell you; you will feel rejuvenated big time.
Let it flow
There’s a first for everything. At Svarga Loka it was my first time doing White Crane Martial Arts. I don’t know about you guys, but for me, this could have been something in between karate, kung fu, and something I had no idea about. It turned out to be the latter. Given by a true Martial Arts legend we practiced some sort of flow of movements while using every muscle in my body (some I didn’t even know existed). Very interesting experience, I have to admit. If this feels a bit too exotic for you, there are also amazing yoga and meditation classes available.
Relax and unwind
I’ve noticed here that I’m actually pretty good at doing nothing. I can totally enjoy the perks of sleeping in a wellness resort and I can totally let go of the urge to see anything other than the insides of a spa or the view from my infinity pool. Nah.. kidding. I do enjoy exploring and I bet the BF will laugh out loud reading the above two sentences. But Svarga Loka did make it really, really, really, easy. So, you’re in for a bit of unwinding and pampering? You know where you gotta go! See you there, I’ll be in the pool!
Love,
Marthe
Would you like to find out more about Svarga Loka? For more information or bookings go here.
Photos by: M. Barends & J. Roeland©.